The duo, dipping into a grab bag of influences, reboot old Gallic warhorses with West Coast sunshine and Quebecois funk. You wonder, as you sit at the counter at Indo and watch chef Nick Bognar at work: Can this guy do anything? Subscribe Now! Restaurants near Esquire Theatre, Cincinnati on Tripadvisor: Find traveler reviews and candid photos of dining near Esquire Theatre in Cincinnati, Ohio. We put together an Esquire Best New Restaurants list in … Fox and Pearl at 2143 Summit Street —K.S. (Our apologies to the great state of Texas. An ideal S. F. afternoon: Order hoagies and a bottle (or two) of fun, esoteric wine from Palm City, then walk to Ocean Beach. Tate created his pop-up, Honeysuckle, as a "portal of Blackness" (as he described it in an Esquire essay earlier this year), an ode that he conveys through delicious, history-drenched dishes—from a glass of handmade Kool-Aid to a perfectly poached and seasoned slab of yam. 4 … Restaurants were forced to change—fast—as the pandemic hurt their business. In normal years, I travel around the country for months hunting for the restaurants that I want to send all of my friends to, the restaurants that are telling stories that I can’t seem to shake, the restaurants where the cooking is so good that I make loud, embarrassing sounds while I’m eating it. It’s why I return. You’ll find some familiar items on the menu—like conservas served on toast—but it’s the cheeky, more cerebral dishes where chef Marcos Campos excels. But we covered a hell of a lot of asphalt, and we experienced, again and again, the creative resilience that makes the American restaurant scene a source of delight. The flagship of Gordon Ramsay’s armada, this is widely considered the best fine-dining restaurant in the country. . The place is an homage to the seafood of Portugal and Galicia, Spain. Fast casual has never felt so luxurious. He takes inspiration from the soil (his okra dish, called Mama Earth, looks and tastes like a supernova of texture and flavor) and from the dollar store (the cream inside his oatmeal-cookie sandwich is suffused with Tang). Here I ate inside, and I’m glad I did. Leah & Louise at 301 Camp Road —J.G. Itinerant and unsinkable, improvisatory and bold, Tate captured the radical shifts of 2020 with everything he undertook. You might be unfamiliar with the cuisine of Guam, but Prubechu will turn you into a fan. An East Coast seafood shack in East Hollywood? NiHao is the brainchild of a power quartet: Peter Chang, the elusive mid-Atlantic legend of Szechuan cuisine; his wife, Lisa; their daughter, Lydia; and the pastry wizard Pichet Ong. February 01, 2018. Meat and potatoes. 4 on its list of 23 best new restaurants … Nothing is accidental; all of it is unforgettable. Both restaurants opened in 2019. Chef Daisy Ryan and her husband, Gregory, have created a place that feels so welcoming and familiar, yet every bite brings excitement, as if you were trying steak au poivre, or uni and caviar, or even salad and fries and ice cream, for the first time. Privacy Policy. Jeff Gordinier. Nov 17, 2020 Yes, we did it. Kolender performs a meant-to-be marriage by dressing up a lobster roll with bisque. Clearly the revelers roaming around the East Village were missing the real party. I’m not sure what a jewel like Mokyo is doing in the middle of the thumping, tattoo-parlored bacchanal that is St. Marks Place, especially with a culinary premise that is already difficult to explain to someone who just wants to get hammered. It’s a place that absolutely purrs with spirit. Fox and Pearl melds live-fire cooking, nose-to-tail butchery, house-made charcuterie, superb hand-cut pastas, and natural wines (chosen by wine director Ben Nuñez) in a handsome space (designed by co-owner Kristine Hull) that will make you rethink what midwestern cuisine can be. It’s a sideways approach to the coastal region, but that’s the fun of it. But if we learned one thing this year, while trapped at home for weeks with tins of tuna and bags of dried beans, slowly being driven nuts by the monotonous, Groundhog Day–like grind, it’s this: We need restaurants more than ever. Talde’s menu takes its core inspiration from the cuisine of Hong Kong, but he shakes up the canon with all kinds of farm-to-tabley and pub-grubish twists: ribs of sweet summer corn dusted with Chinese five-spice powder, kung pao chicken wings that you dunk in a tub of buttermilk ranch, crab rice that’s got more layers than a Christopher Nolan movie. Will they remain on the menu? I’ll probably drive back down to our nation’s capital on a whim for the mushroom pizza and the porchetta panuzzo (a melty pork sandwich that gets you fantasizing that this alley you’re in is actually in Naples), but it’s Brandwein’s vegetables that haunt me: mushrooms that float to the table with an audible sizzle and a perfume of garlic, and a bowl of smoky black chickpeas that taste the way standing next to a campfire feels. Ryan’s food finds that farm-fresh, leisurely thread between California and France that makes you want to order another bottle of wine and consider slowing life down a bit. Which District restaurants (and chefs) made the list? Taking a pulse of America's of-the-moment bars, Esquire found one that makes a splash in Seattle. 6 and No. Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America, 2020. Esquire Best Restaurants. It’s about the good fortune of falling into a conversation with a sommelier, like Madeline Maldonado, who can describe a beverage in ways that make you crave it in that exact moment and deepen your experience of tasting it as you drink. The distinct smell of firewood hits you when you walk into the luscious, maximalist space that is Porto. This is how you do it. It’s an understatement to say that 2020 was different. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again. 01 February 2018. Join the club. 1, is a Southern Thai restaurant in Philadelphia that's also garnered praise and recognition from other publications this year. Exclusive & Unlimited access to Esquire Classic - The Official Esquire Archive. Tate views John Coltrane as a muse—the jazz titan lived in Philadelphia for many years—and Honeysuckle winds up being as spirit-nourishing as a headphone session with John Coltrane’s A Love Supreme. Maldonado has a gift for using wine to open your mind. So Do Black-Owned Businesses. until now. NiHao at 2322 Boston Street —J.G. In a list published Nov. 17, Esquire named Indo in Botanical Heights the No. Who needs a restaurant when you’ve got this much vision? New French in the Old West? As a general rule: Be brave. Balkan Treat Box at 8103 Big Bend Boulevard —J.G. Piccolina at 963 Palmer Alley NW —J.G. You will want to become a regular, and many have. It’s an entirely new perspective on the brasserie. 5 The Onrushing Deluge of Republican Hypocrisy. Nami Nori at 33 Carmine Street —J.G. If there’s a unifying theme, something that all of our picks have in common, it would be the stubborn survival of community in the face of what can only be called an existential threat. The pizza comes from Eat Free Pizza, which started as a secret pop-up where Billy Federighi, his wife, Cecily Rodriguez, and their friend Brad Shorten would bake pies in their apartment and serve them on their stoop. Paola Velez is not just one of the most skilled young bakers and dessert creators in the country; she’s a leader when it comes to innovating new modes of activism, from registering voters to raising money for social justice. Carnitas on a deftly textured tortilla. As for the how part, suffice it to say that, yes, we had to make a few adjustments to our annual process. Deviled eggs with an undercurrent of vitello tonnato, a plate of super-fresh cantaloupe with feathery slivers of prosciutto, a tender tangle of cacio e pepe. We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. Well, we’re doing it as an expression of support—love, really—for the chefs and bartenders and servers and dishwashers and maître d’s who are fighting that fight every day. Le Crocodile at 80 Wythe Avenue —K.S. . I did that from November 2019 to early March 2020, and during those months I managed to visit serious gems in cities like Cleveland and St. Louis and Indianapolis and Philadelphia. 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