It’s all about repairing the moisture barrier and nurturing the stratum corneum (SC) back into full existence. All those typical acne meds and chemical exfoliation you’re so fond of. MOIST OR DIE! I was using The Ordinary’s squalane after I read your post, and while it worked well for the first two weeks, I soon started getting little bumps popping up again in the same spot. Your skin type is what you're naturally born with, such as oily skin or dry skin. However, one of the biggest discoveries was quite accidental. "Dehydrated skin can be oily, combination, or normal skin type that is lacking water and feels tight", says Patricia Boland, International skin educator and lead product developer at Colorescience UK. Your hands should be gracefully gliding over your skin at all times. The moisture in your skin shouldn’t just be leaving your skin to the point where it’s depleted by the end of the day. A million questions! “You need to focus the most on hydration now. In other words, the more you cleanse, and the harsher the cleanser you’re using, the worse off you’ll be. O_o. (1). One study found that controlled release of benzoyl peroxide through a polymer system significantly reduced it’s irritation without sacrificing efficacy. Make sure to especially avoid bar soaps and anything that has a high pH. Hyaluronic acid is OK, but is not addressing the underlying issues in dermatological conditions like eczema. It’s not all that common to find NAG as an ingredient in skincare products, and especially not in adequate concentrations, but thankfully, like niacinamide, it’s fairly easy to find as a powder that’s water-soluble, so it’s incredibly easy to concoct a DIY toner that combines these ingredients. Especially knowing how much pseudoscience is floating around with no sources that constantly fool many. :p Link here for those interested. It distinguishes itself from traditionally dry skin, because dry skin lacks both WATER and OIL. I’m feeling that cerave baby cream is going to replace cerave in the tub as your HG in the future! And at the risk of sounding like a broken record: MAKE SURE TO DO CONTACT THERAPY. I recently started using a relatively new moisturizer by Cetaphil b/c it contains the ingredients below, including urea! If I might contribute a point to dehydration + hyaluronic acid, you have to be careful when using it in a dry climate (as I’ve experienced) because sometimes when it can’t draw in water from the air, it may attract the water in your skin to itself, which would mean it’s pulling water out of your skin. You have the flakes too? In terms of treating acne, an in vitro study found that 1% concentration of SAP has strong antimicrobial effects against acne for 8 hours, (49) and that a 5% SAP lotion used for 12 weeks is more effective than 5% benzoyl peroxide monotherapy and 0.1% adapalene with NO SIDE EFFECTS. Anyway, I now know way too much about skincare for my own good, but I’m really glad that I was able to help some of my friends with the knowledge I’ve gathered and by directing them to your site! I tried the Vanicream cleanser for a while, but ended up with lots of whiteheads. I’m so grateful, but I’m curious to how you guys remove it when using only water and at the same time being very gentle ? Like we discussed earlier, these should be avoided if you’re dealing with dehydration. These degradation products exhibit functions within the permeability barrier of the SC, including maintenance of hydration, pH (acidity), buffering capacity of the SC, and physiological desquamation, all of which contribute to healthy skin function and appearance…. (14) All of these will help get your skin back up and running. Yeah, you heard that right. The … “One of the most common exogenous (i.e. In fact, one of it’s main purposes is to form a barrier to protect underlying tissue from infection, dehydration, chemicals and mechanical stress. Comparing the two pictures, you can literally see how the skin looks “wounded” in the before picture. I think many others would agree. Dehydrated skin usually has less to do about the hydration inside of your body and more to do with how we treat the skin topically or the atmosphere around us. Where have you been fc Anyway, since your fungal acne post I’ve wondered if you have cured your kerastosis pilaris on your body? I don’t have CeraVe immediately available to me here in the UK, but I’m going to Italy in a few days and this product from Synchroline has ceramides and seems maybe promising: Sensicure Cream Gel (http://www.theskinmedshop.com/sensicure-c102x2573139): AQUA (WATER), CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIMETHYL SULFONE,DIMETHICONE, GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PEG/PPG-20/15 DIMETHICONE, SODIUMCHLORIDE, XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE, CETEARYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPLYMER, XYLITOL, SODIUMHYALURONATE, CERAMIDE 1, ANHYDROXYLITOL, CERAMIDE 3, CHOLESTEROL, CERAMIDE 6II, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, BENZYL PCA, PHENOXYETHONAL, DISODIUM EDTA, SODIUMHYDROXIDE, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE). Where do you stand on silicones and their like (such as cyclohexasiloxane, etc?) My skin looks better when I cut them out completely. If your skin is ultra compromised and cannot tolerate any cleanser (even vanicream or something similar), try using micellar water! I actually use an app to remind myself.”—u/didneypurnsess, “In the end, I figured out what works best for me is glycerin and then vaseline at night, and more importantly, minimalism…. My favorite is Vaseline. Thank you so much for your super thorough, super helpful posts! The epithelialization process is impaired in all types of chronic wounds.” (44), Oddly enough, and despite it’s shortcomings, BP was actually used as an epidermal wound healing agent for burns, ulcers, and topical infections for the first 50 years in dermatology. Vaseline. How to Fix Dehydrated Skin. water “What the hell f.c.?!? This morning I woke up to skin that was much much better. Ceramides, specifically, help regulate cells, repair damaged skin, and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by creating a waterproof barrier. Slow down there, buddy. *Moisturizer is for pansies. Instant. I should also throw in that I make it a point to drink a LOT of water. There’s a lot more to say about it, like the importance of it’s molecular weight and how that might cause inflammation or help with wound epithelialization, but that’s why that super duper long blog post exists. This can be counteracted by applying over damp skin and followed up with some kind of an occlusive (I personally found that I needed to do water->HA->more water->occlusive for best results) but may not work for everyone who lives in very dry climates. One of the hardest things about having dehydrated skin is the inevitable over-production of oils you’ll likely experience, which can unfortunately lead to more acne. What’s most important when it comes to dehydrated skin is DOING LESS. I can also get Dr. Jart’s Ceramidin products in Italy, they seem well reviewed but the ingredients list looks long and possibly troublesome? It took me a long, long time to realize/accept that actives don’t do anything for me. The other day, I got a comment on my Pinterest account under one of my videos asking about how to layer The Ordinary Skincare products for dry acne-prone skin… , I know the idea of rubbing some goopy a** vaseline on your face might sound gross, and perhaps scary cause you think it will clog your pores. Like I said, I’ve never tried this so don’t really have any. Seriously, I cannot stress this enough. But in the meantime, here’s a good video explaining what it is and how to do it (bonus points for the ASMR it gives me haha). How 50 People From Reddit and YOUTUBE Cleared Their Fungal Acne! Look specifically for gentle facial washes that are noncomedogenic, free of dyes, fragrance-free, … consequence) of dehydrated skin! It’s NOT doing its job of holding onto moisture.”. “Certain topical products, including over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products with certain additives (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids, astringents, abrasive granules, retinol) can induce damage to the SC leading to changes related to SC desiccation and cutaneous irritation. OH MY! stratum corneum (SC) = outermost layer of skin. This is just as effective as 5% and 10% with less irritation. Urea For Skin Explained (14 Studies): Literally Everything You Need To Know! I am dealing dehydrated skin atm and curious if these products helped cure your skin dehydration problem? Anything else that is sensitizing like menthol, lemon, baking soda, toothpaste etc. In fact, there is evidence that “lipid peroxidation is the driving force behind the progression of comedogenesis and inflammation in acne.” (53), If lipid peroxidation does not occur, than acne cannot exist. Oh f.c., I tragically spilled a solid 4-5 days worth of my Timeless Squalane onto my counter this morning! , Speaking purely from experience, this is by far the most moisturizing oil I’ve ever tried in my life! Just wondering, when you do BP contact therapy do you usually put it all over your face or just the areas where you have acne? My face is now SO much more resilient and I can’t believe all the money and time I was spending on hydrating products that never ‘took hold’ because my skin kept getting knocked back with exfoliation.”—u/lgbtqbbq (a.k.a. This will be especially true for those suffering from any of the following conditions: adult acne, atopic dermatitis (eczema), dandruff, malassezia folliculitis (fungal acne), psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and tinea versicolor (pityriasis versicolor). Niacinamide actually increases the synthesis of these in our skin naturally! I want to switch to more moisturizing products, but my personal issue is that my skin doesn’t seem to tolerate squalane or caprylic acid very well – I’ve linked both to breakouts in previous products I’ve used – so I’m a bit wary of trying some of the moisturizing products you’ve recommended. :p, I’m sure you can get the same effect with mattyfing powder, but I’m not lady and don’t wear makeup so I wouldn’t know. Like urea and glycerin, this is also a humectant and a component of the NMF. I kind of disagree, but that’s a topic for another time. THAT, I think, is one of the scariest things if you’re suffering from dehydrated skin: most people with this condition have gone months, maybe even years, constantly putting products on their face to the point where it’s almost become a mental dependency, and they feel that in order to help their skin they NEED to be aggressively targeting it with several treatments. This couldn’t be further from the truth, and it’s probably what’s preventing a total remission in the first place. Anyway…. “Filaggrin is degraded into several free amino acids (histidine, glutamine, arginine), PCA, urocanic acid, ornithine, citrulline, and aspartic acid. The dude has AMAZING skin and attributes it partly to not using any sort of facial cleansers. “Cleanser surfactants can bind to SC proteins, leading to keratin swelling within corneocytes and subsequent structural damage to the SC as well as damage to and denaturation of key SC enzymes… While it may be impossible for cleansers to have no negative impact on the skin, attempts to formulate cleansers to reduce cleanser-induced damage have been successful.” (8). I have to say that I agree with “Super Nintendo Chalmers” up there. Additionally, research continues to uncover specific abnormalities of the SC that contribute to certain dermatological diseases and/or impaired epidermal functions, and how some topical and systemic therapies may adversely affect SC integrity and function.” (4). If such a small change can have such a drastic effect on my lips, then it must be having a very positive effect on the moisture barrier for the rest of my skin. And lastly…. Secondly, I took the idea of using lighter moisturising products which I could layer if necessary. -Recently, I discovered the brand The Ordinary and after just one week of using their products, my skin became visibly clearer and brighter. The Importance of The Stratum Corneum (SC). To this day, I have found nothing more gentle to wash my skin with, and it’s what I used several years ago after I had an allergic reaction to a hydrocortisone cream. To prove a point son! Hi! *AM* Cold weather, harsh winds, and low humidity (i.e. When I finally accepted that my skin was very unhappy, I stopped all of that. Micellar water has been a game-changer for me, however — my skin has become normalized and completely acne-free since making it my only cleansing product. Why Squalane Oil Is the Best Oil According to 40 Studies. This results in flakey, dull, rough-looking skin that increases the likelihood of developing clogged pores and therefore acne. Note: squalane also acts as a penetration enhancer, which means it can turn otherwise non-comedogenic ingredients comedogenic since it allows molecules to freely flow in and out of pores. The Simple cleanser doesn’t create much of a lather at all, but I took that as a good sign, and I noticed that my skin felt less tight after switching the Cerave Foaming Cleanser out for this. outside) factors that can cause epidermal damage is over-washing or over-bathing, especially when combined with use of poorly formulated or harsh cleansers, especially true soaps, which are alkaline. These are all very well tolerated, and unlikely to cause breakouts. I read and appreciate every single one :) If you ever have any questions, feel free to tweet or Instagram DM me @styleandsushi or email me styleandsushi@outlook.com. Fatty alcohols are A-okay! Sorry. But rest assured, industry experts from the Journal of Cosmetic Science have shown it is non-comedogenic. Topical prescription medications intended to treat specific skin disorders or cosmetic concerns may actually cause or exacerbate damage to the SC permeability barrier and possibly other epidermal functions depending on the pharmacological properties of the active ingredient(s).” (11). Laneige water sleeping mask [i bought it becuz my skin is dry and flaky at times, but now I know it is dehydrated]) prior to vaseline? the composition of our facial oil). I simply send out emails every couple weeks to summarize the content I've written. here’s a good video explaining what it is and how to do it, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension (10%), How to Treat Fungal Acne (Malassezia Folliculitis), 1500+ Fungal Acne Safe Products: An Updated List of Skincare For Malassezia. And it makes sense considering squalene makes up 10-16% of our sebaceous lipid mixture (i.e. However, this has gotten me thinking that I should try something gentle like a cleansing milk at night (and the occasional use of a microfibre cloth to address the flaking), and therefore not need to rinse with regular water even at night anymore, just to experiment and see if that makes even more of a difference — I suspect it will. You see, the crappy thing about malassezia-conditions (e.g. … the skin flora). Despite this excess oil flowing through the pores all over the face, skin still feels tight or dry everywhere on your face, and these signs are often accompanied by flaking. Remember how I said urea is important? I love the science (I’m a PhD in biochemistry) and even though I’m middle aged and my skin concerns are the absolute opposite of yours, your blog is so helpful and informative I find it a fabulous resource. 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